The Cretan tradition of "choirosfagia" is an age-old family ritual that has stood the test of time in many villages across the island. Every summer, families raise a small piglet, feeding it a wholesome diet of carob pods, vegetable peels, and fruit scraps. As Christmas approaches, the pig is slaughtered with the help of family and friends in a time-honored process.

Each part of the pig has its specific use:

• The tender meat near the spine becomes apaki.
• The belly is reserved for syglino.
• The head is used for tsiladia (a traditional pork jelly).
• The hind legs are transformed into choiromeri (ham).
• The intestines become sausages, and the glina (rendered fat) is stored as butter.

Apaki, a standout delicacy, is marinated in vinegar with salt and herbs for 2–3 days. It is then smoked with a mix of erontas (dittany), lathania, thyme, and cypress wood. Whether used as an ingredient in cooked dishes or served as a prized meze alongside raki, apaki is a true taste of Crete.

Ingredients

• 500g apaki, cut into pieces
• 2 cups xinohondros (Cretan sour wheat trahana)
• ½ cup olive oil
• 4 zucchini, chopped
• 1 slice of sweet pumpkin, chopped
• 2 eggplants, chopped
• 2 large onions, sliced
• 2–3 garlic cloves
• Salt and pepper to taste

Preparation

1. Soak the xinohondros in cold water, then drain.
2. Wash, peel, and chop the vegetables.
3. In a wide pot, heat the olive oil and sauté the onions and garlic. Add the zucchini, eggplant, and a splash of water. Simmer until the vegetables soften slightly.
4. Season with salt and pepper, then add the apaki and xinohondros. If necessary, add hot water to cover the mixture.
5. Lower the heat and simmer gently until the dish is cooked through.

This dish is a celebration of Crete's culinary heritage, combining the smoky richness of apaki with the tangy and hearty texture of xinohondros. It's a perfect showcase of local ingredients and traditional cooking methods that will transport you straight to the heart of Cretan kitchens.

Recipe provided by Lena Igoumenaki, President of the Cretan Cuisine Festival.