Platea Sidagmatos: The legendary kafeneio in the heart of Anogeia

Anogeia embodies the very soul of Crete. This heroic village, a stronghold of the National Resistance, is widely known as the island’s most storied settlement. At its central square, just across from Xylouris' home, stands perhaps its oldest café: the traditional kafeneio of Michalos Skoulas, adorned with a sign that reads "Syntagma Square."

Under the generous shade of mulberry trees, you can savor a classic Greek coffee paired with Anogeia’s famous galaktoboureko or sip raki accompanied by local meze—think sausages, smoked apaki, and dakos with olives. The retro space is inviting, featuring straw-seated chairs and flower-filled pots, exuding the timeless charm of Cretan hospitality. You’ll often spot the village elders here, sipping raki. They remain warriors at heart, dressed in black shirts, with proud mustaches to match their spirited demeanor.

Inside the café, the history of the Skoulas family comes to life. The walls are packed with portraits and old newspaper clippings detailing the family’s role in the revolutionary struggles. Taking center stage are two portraits of the beloved Michalos himself, the unforgettable "kafetzis" who passed away in 2014.